

I have a second-hand Fanny II from LeClerc and have woven many rugs on it.īut the type of floor looms I really recommend are ones that are solidly constructed. But you can use a floor loom with a foldable back beam. You can get smaller floor looms which fold up, but I would avoid a fully foldable loom, as there’s always a danger that it will collapse under pressure. There’s a huge array of these looms available from brands like LeClerc, Harrisville, Glimakra, and Toika to name a few, and they come in many different sizes. If you want to weave rugs on a larger scale and on a faster timeline, I recommend trying a floor loom. Verdict: A good starting point for more advanced rug weaving.Ĭons: Longer set up time, complexity, takes up space. So for larger scale projects, you are better off looking at a floor loom. The warp and cloth beams are not large enough to fit a long length of woven rug. The one downside to these table looms is that you are limited in terms of how wide your rug can be- and how long it can be too. You want them to be sturdy & solid, strong enough to withstand the tension needed to weave a rug.

The key thing to look for in a table loom is the size and strength of the metal cogs which hold the warp and cloth beams in place. The shafts can be raised and lowered to lift the warp and this speeds up the weaving process considerably. Looms like the Harris Table Loom are relatively simple to set up for the first time but allow you to weave a longer rug overall. If you don’t want to stretch for a floor loom just yet but want to experiment with shafts and beams, table looms are a great starting point. Verdict: Best to avoid if you want to weave rugs. If you want to weave rugs on a horizontal warp, I recommend looking at table or floor looms. Secondly, the cogs on most rigid heddles are not strong enough to maintain the tension needed for rug weaving, and the looms themselves are not sturdy enough to withstand the pressure of a heavy rug warp. They are brilliant starter looms, but I don’t recommend them for rug weaving.įirstly, these looms are designed for fine, close-spaced warps, so most of the heddles that are sold with them do not fit the heavier warp used for rugs. These looms are primarily designed to weave cloth, although some textile artists like Hannah Waldron use them to weave tapestry too. They allow you to weave a longer length of fabric than a frame loom, and the heddle separates the warp to make it easier to pass the weft through and beat it down. Rigid heddle looms are very popular these days. Pros: Great for weaving cloth or tapestry- but not rugsĬons: Tension issues, limited flexibility for warp, not sturdy enough. Verdict: A great starter loom, ideal for the online course. However this loom is limited in terms of the size of the rug you can weave, although it is possible to warp it in a continuous loop and weave a rug that is twice as long! This continuous loop can also be moved around the loom, allowing greater adjustability so it’s less physically demanding to weave on.įinally, this is the loom I use to demonstrate my techniques on throughout my Rug Weaving On An Upright Loom online course! These techniques will translate onto almost any loom, but I do recommend this loom for the course, especially if you’re a beginner weaver. These separate the warp, making it easier to pass the weft across the loom and speeding up the weaving process. It's very simple to set up, and it comes with a heddle rod and shed stick. Of course, I’d be remiss in this post if I didn’t mention my own rug loom! I designed this loom especially for beginners, and for use in my own weaving workshops and online course. Pros: Simple to set up, shed stick and heddle rod.
